Sunday, March 6, 2011

The Longest Walk!

[This is an edited version of a log I kept during a Grand Canyon Hike taken with Steve Anthony, Bill Griffin, Andrew Mecom, Jeff Tesney dealing with the morning of July 19, 2010 (but written in the afternoon)]


Once we had successfully descended the Kaibab (arriving at the river at about 9:15 AM) everyone sat down in what was identified as the "best air conditioned tunnel" in the world." This tunnel emerges above the Colorado river at the start of the "Black Bridge". Sitting in the tunnel hikers walk past and we assure them that if they kick us not to worry because we will not do anything. All of us sitting in the tunnel enjoyed the cool breeze that wafts through the tunnel. Eventually as the sun rises we decide to get up, put packs on and cross the bridge. The sun is very bright, the river is roaring and the temperature is past 100 degrees F even though the humidity is quite high (45% is very high and that is what was reported that morning). Our pace is very slow, limbs stiff, packs heavy and out feet had various ills, I lost both toe nails coming down Kaibab (forgot the hiking poles this year) and others have irritating blisters. All of us have been up since 3:15 AM and none of us has had a real breakfast (water, GORP, power bars and electrolyte drinks substituted for breakfast).


Hungry, tired, sore, hot and suffering is at there peak at this time in the hike. The hike, starting with the first huge big step off the "Black Bridge."..This is the longest walk in the universe. The hike from Black Bridge to Phantom Ranch matches the description of the walk through the Valley of Death read that morning but is now long past our ability to remember.




     Jeff blurts out "Oh my God is that another switchback?" when he sees the bend at the end of the bridge. I assure Jeff that this is the last switchback he will see today. He turns and we return to our silent shuffle toward the end of the bridge.

     We walk past the Anastazi ruins which later Bill shared "I did not even see them when we went by them the first time." Conversation had ceased during this walk. We saw a sign "Hot. Tired. Almost expired?" and this may be true but the sing pointed to a sunny very hot looking location30 yards away to a very shallow creek. Going to this relief would have required shedding packs and descending into a ravine for 1 inch deep water. None of us were tempted to do so.
     The Kaibab shuffle is in full play at this time. Toes pointed in, feet that lift less than half an inch over small stones and a gate that is very slow and small in reach. Some, due to humidity, have drenched clothing (sweat) and "crotch rot" that is uncomfortable with a "burning" sensation. Every discomfort is insignificant compared to the joint pain we all share (as middle aged hikers tend to have).
     An amazing event occurs when Jeff, in all his discomfort, takes out a camera to photo a deer grazing just off the trail. I looked at Jeff and said "You know a person is a true professional photographer when in his pain and suffering he pulls out a camera to take pictures." Jeff turns, looks at me and says "Thank You". There is no more conversation.
     The walk seems so long and no one is having a conversation. Steve who is leading us along the path to Phantom ranch looks back as if non-verbally signaling the question at a fork in the path "Which way?" as we reach a turn that offers a longer route left with no mule dung or right that is shorter with mule dung I did not hesitate "Go right!" to Steve who was leading all of us up the trail.
     Bill arrives at the corral that has a sign "Welcome to Phantom Ranch" and turns left walking straight toward the sign. He walks straight through the scorpion infested, mule dung (still damp fresh and smelly) but he clearly does not care. I figured if Bill didn't care and no one else appeared to be protesting so I followed them through the corral. We all walk through the dung together and either none of us cared or some of us may not have known.
     We all walk straight to the water jug. No one takes a paper cup and instead we all take turns launching the luke warm water into out open mouths. I point out that all of us are only 30 yards from the Phantom ranch Canteen. Bill Griffin sits on a bench and says "I am not going anywhere. I am just fine right here." I wanted to talk about the smell of the dung and lack of cool refreshment but what good would that have done? Bill needed to stay there for a while, we are in no hurry and there is no law against sitting on benches at Phantom Ranch (and even if there were who would enforce it?) I had no energy to argue and just said "I will meet you at the canteen where they have the best lemonade in the who world." No one even smiled but it may be because I did not say it forcefully enough. Jeff, Any and Bill elect to remain.
     Steve goes with me to the canteen. We take off our packs and Steve seems unsure when asking "Do we take off our packs and leave them out here?" and I state "Yes. Take them off and leave them out here. We are done. The hike is over." [I never asked Steve if this was due to his concern about the rodents and squirrels or if he was concerned about someone lifting the pack to run off 13 miles and 6500 feet up the side of the canyon to the rim].
     We go into the canteen and I buy five lemonades and I make arrangements for us to take our dorm beds. I was thinking when the others arrive they can drink iced lemonade as a reward. Steve asks "Do you want me to bring these back to them?" I told him that would be very generous of him. I als told him that refills are only a dollar if they retain the cup. Steve returned to the dung yard. Bill Griffin later remembered how great it was getting that cold lemonade. I was so impressed with Steve Anthony. He put aside his own suffering to help his friends by shuffling back to them with lemonade and the message "Your dorm room and bed is ready and waiting for you".

     Later some enjoyed a swim in the Colorado River!  


     Sometimes when things are tough, as they are on this hike, you really get to see the true character of the people you bring. Steve displayed unusual character and a love for brothers rarely witnessed. This longest walk of suffering ended with a victory of goodness and kindness of one man for another.
    This goodness and kindness shall follow these men all the days of their lives. Why? I am certain that the Lord is their shepherd! The rise up to lay in cold refreshing pools of water of Bright Angel Creek, they lay down in soft beds right when they needed too. The Lord knows their needs. The morning is in complete contrast to the afternoon. By that afternoon the Lord has restored us all.

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