We arrived in Flagstaff on Saturday September 4, 2021 and drove to Grand Canyon National Park.
There was quite a line of cars to get into the park (which was free for us as I have a golden pass).
While we were waiting in line the brothers lined up at the entrance sign for a posed photo.
After arriving to the park we immediately went to Bright Angel Lodge to check on meal arrangements.
Then we visited the Back Country Office to check on our camping and hiking permits.
Along the way we saw a nice buck grazing the foliage by the train tracks near the road.
On Sunday September 5, 2021
we went to the only Catholic Chapel in the United States National Parks system!
Father Rafael Bercasio said the 9:30 AM Mass at El Cristo Rey Chapel in the Grand Canyon,
the only Catholic parish located inside a national park.
The responsorial psalm at the mass was particularly helpful to me during our hike:
R. (6) God himself is my help.
O God, by your name save me,
and by your might defend my cause.
O God, hear my prayer;
hearken to the words of my mouth.
R. God himself is my help.
Behold, God is my helper;
the Lord sustains my life.
Freely will I offer you sacrifice;
I will praise your name, O LORD, for its goodness.
R. God himself is my help.
Reminding ourselves by saying a rosary each evening was key to our maintaining a focus that would bring us home safely.
That Sunday we toured the "south rim" of the Canyon from Canyon Village to
Desert View. The views can never be replicated with photos.
One has to see these vistas live to understand the majesty of this special place.
The Desert View Tower was closed due to COVID restrictions. This meant no magnificent views from the tower but the tower itself is a special view. Views from the edge of
the east side of the park were still available and they were worth the trip.
We aimed to hike Bright Angel Trail down to Phantom Ranch and then back up in 5 days under load.
The family were new to this sort of activity but were determined to see it through.
On Monday September 6 2021 we began our decent into the Canyon starting above the Bright Angel Trailhead. Everyone carried a load. Hiking the distance and elevation change under load is a challenge for the most experienced of hikers. This family was camping and hiking for the first time in one of the most difficult of trails in the world. Breaking camp quickly is critical as the sun heats up the canyon walls FAST making trailing hot and uncomfortable and even deadly. Breaking camp is always a challenge for novice hikers but they were up to the task. There are no easy hikes into the Grand Canyon Canyon and this is especially true with the intense heat that was present.
Our plan was to hike down 7,000 feet on 11 miles of rugged hot trail in two legs over two days.
Some call this the "Cadillac Route" as other routes are harder in the heat (even if shorter).
The stop below is at the 3 mile rest house. It is getting hot and the sun has been up a while.
We took a much needed a packs off break! Some are beginning to realize that under load this is going to be a challenge. Only 2.1 more miles to go till we make our first camp.
We stayed the first Monday night at Indian Gardens Campground about 5.1 miles from our starting point at the trail head. We had descended 3200 feet in that one leg of the hike. It was challenging and packs needed to be lightened for most of us! So we reconfigured what we were carrying. The trail leader happily took all sleeping bags for the remainder of the trip!
We had an accident here that would have derailed most family trailers. A propane burner exploded into flames as it was fired up. One member of the team was burned just below a knee. We hydrated the wound until rangers came to assist and coach us. They suggested the option of ending the hike. The injured person wanted to finish the hike and the family decided to finish to complete itinerary. Special care was taken to keep the wound clean and reduce the load of the injured person. Finishing the hike was genuine evidence of both persistence and courage.
Indian Gardens (now called Havasupai Gardens) has a little creek available which allowed for us to cool down. The brothers took advantage of this.
We woke up early Tuesday morning (September 7, 2021) as we now had a full day ahead under load again. The earlier we leave the less heat we had to endure. Along the way we met a Big Horn Sheep. Some call these "Canyon Sheep". Hikers, who were afraid to pass on the other side of the trail, called out for me to throw stones in order to scare the sheep away! The big horns and scowl convinced me that could "backfire". I did not follow their advice. We just slowly made our way, giving time for the sheep to retreat as we came forward past this wild animal. The sheep only wanted the water and green reeds at the side of the trail and we were a temporary problem for him.
We engaged the trails subsection called "Devil's Corkscrew" next. This part of the trail is the most deadly section. Those who enter this section when the sun is up short of water can find it life threatening. I was asked to carry the pack of a trail mate with a heart condition and did so. I considered it to be an honor! We made it down corkscrew prior to direct sunlight striking us.
This successful traversing of this dangerous section of trail meant a lot to all of us!
Here we are at the start of the River trail that walks us along the river. Packs off break!
This is the end of the second leg of our hike. We are about to cross the "silver bridge" across the Colorado River. Everyone was fresh enough to carry their own packs. None were left behind!
We spent Tuesday and Wednesday (September 7 & 8, 2021) at Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch. It was HOT. Due to COVID restrictions dinners were "to go" and the Phantom Ranch Canteen was not open to hikers! We ate wonderful steak dinner, breakfast and stew dinner outside in the heat. The closed canteen meant no air conditioning (as the workers and cabin dwellers have) for hikers at all. These restrictions made things even more difficult for us. Bright Angel Creek became our lone source of relief from the intense heat.
We spent 2 days in the creek and needed too as well.
I lay still in the Creek and fish will come up and swim into my "draft" in the creek current. I hold my hands cupped and still until the fish enter. Then I fold my hands around the fish and place it in my water tight shoe. My trail mates thought it was cool.
On Thursday September 9, 2021 morning we got up early. The goal was to complete Devil's Corkscrew prior to direct sunlight. That meant walking 2 miles along the river in the early morning darkness and then engaging the dreaded and deadly "Devil's Corkscrew" prior to sunrise. We managed to do that! I was asked to carry the pack for a fellow hiker during the corkscrew elevation change equal to a 70 story building. Again I was honored and counted it as a blessing to help. What are old goats for any way?
Everyone is happy to be through the hardest and most dangerous part of the hike!
On the way up we met the same Big Horn Sheep but this time he stood his ground and seem irritated with our displacing him from his grazing and watering hole.
Once at Havasupai Gardens (the new name for what was called Indian Gardens in the previous 80 years) we could use the small creek to cool down!
We started very early on Friday September 10th on the last leg out of the Canyon depths. We methodically hiked up the dozens of switchbacks in the final 3 miles of Bright Angel Trail. The thinning air meant frequent wind breaks. The rising sun meant rising temperatures.
There are no words that can sufficiently describe the feeling of a family that has made it into the deepest parts of the Grand Canyon and then back out again! This was a hot, long, steep hike that only those of special character can endure. Below we pose at the trail head where we entered 5 days earlier.
The family endured dust, fatigue, heat, injuries of various types, sore muscles, aching joints and thin air especially when they were most tired and climbing into a trail lit up by the morning sun. In addition we had to endure each other when we were not at our best. What fun we had!
